Blog Bite: Biergarten's Glutster Burger

— by Caroline on Crack

Glutster burger by Caroline on Crack

Fast-food childhood revisited. (Sorry for the cellphone picture.)

Last night, I tried the Glutster for the first time and boy, delicious. The burger, not the blogger. The decadent burger was created by Biergarten chef Eddie Hah (formerly of 8 oz) as an ode to kid blogger (really, 22 years old) Glutster, who is well-known in the L.A. food blogging circles thanks to praise by Pulitzer Prize winner Jonathan Gold, Chef Ludo Lefebvre and the New Yorker, not to mention his basic ubiquity on the food scene via TV shows, blogs, newspapers, magazines.

So it makes sense that he gets a burger created for him. And not surprisingly, the Glutster burger is for the daring and the non-dieting as it’s made with a pork patty, chipotle black beans, epazote aioli, pickled onion, fried green tomato and guacamole. And delicate eaters can forget it as well. In other words, DO NOT order this on a first date as there’s no way you can get around the messy goodness of black beans and guacamole sauciness sliding all over the place. Even my boyfriend of many years raised an eyebrow as I went through three napkins, wiping up my chin and my fingers. “Don’t look at me, honey!”

Now, Glutster, aka Javier Cabral, prefers the burger with the pork patty but you can also order it with either a beef or a beef-pork blend patty. Neil, owner of Biergarten, said he likes it with beef. I ordered mine with the pork, only cuz I’m not a big beef eater.

Suffice it to say, great burger. Like it reminded Javier of his fast-food-driven childhood, it took me back to my favorite Carl’s Jr. burger while growing up. I don’t really remember its name, I think it had “California” in it. But it was made with a big chile and guacamole and it was sadly only available for a limited time. Sigh. But here again was that spiciness and the creamy guac, this time accompanied with a bit of tang from the pickled onion and even char on the pork! Almost tasted homemade.**

I was very nearly able to enjoy it without the guilt that so often plagues my indulgences now that I’m an adult with sucky metabolism. Regardless, last night at Glutster’s party, where he was celebrating his cover story in this month’s Saveur Magazine, I enjoyed the burger with a La Fin du Monde followed by a Gnomegang. Take that, diet!